An Attempt At A 'Gift Guide'
(No, I can't believe I've gone to the bother of doing one either)
Posting a gift guide after Black Friday seems to be an odd thing to do, given that many shops only have the deals running either on the week of, or they run it on the Friday itself into the following Monday. Either way, posting something like this in the weeks previous may have better served the eight or so of you who cast a cursory glance in the direction of this blog/newsletter/whatever we’re calling this format.
I’ve never been a fan of Black Friday, not so much due to the push to ‘buy buy buy’, but because a lot of these deals aren’t actually good deals. Indeed, in some cases, you never know if the item has really been discounted at all1. Also, I’m increasingly finding that the stuff you actually want to spend money on isn’t discounted, so you’re better just paying full price. Even if something is on sale, it sort of feels like there’s sales on constantly nowadays2.
Anyhow, this guide - or rather, a list of where I would get menswear stuff for those interested in that sort of thing - probably would’ve been better served being posted at the start of this week, but I forgot to actually write anything. So, you’re getting it now (better late than never and all that).
Finally, none of this is sponsored or anything.
Buy vintage (if you have their measurements)
Starting off this list by stating the obvious: Buying vintage3 clothing (or books or records etc) for people for Christmas and any other relevant celebrations is fine. It’s more than fine actually, it’s actually quite a good thing to do, not just for your wallet or the environment, but it’s also just a nice thing to give, it feels more personal.
You can go full on ‘peak fashion bro vintage hunter’ and go to one of the curated shops that stock top of the line, in A+ condition, somewhat rare pieces of clothing or (and no shade to said shops), you could just go to a local charity shop, or eBay, or Vinted.
The key thing with buying vintage items isn’t just examining the condition or tags, but also knowing the measurements of the garment itself and of the person you’re buying it for. I know, I know, ‘how on earth am I supposed to find out that if I don’t know?’ Simple, either ask (as I’ve done for my wife), or pick an opportune moment when they’re not around to raid their wardrobe with a measuring tape (again, as I’ve done for my wife).
I know it may seem like spoiling the surprise but I don’t really think it is; if anything, it may prove to peak their interest in what you’re getting them, hence again why it’s doubly important to have those measurements!
Below are a list of places4 I’ve bought vintage stuff from in the past and have had good experiences with. They all (largely) list the measurements of their items somewhere in the description or item pictures. Some even produce their own stuff alongside stocking vintage. They all also have good returns terms should things go south:
Wolf Clothing Collective (they produce their own chore jackets which I’ve seen get a lot of love, and they’re pretty sound folks too in terms of sizing questions and so on!)
Universal Surplus (they used to be Brut Archives, but then I’m guessing the lads there took the decision to spin Brut off into it’s own clothing brand - which makes some very nice but a bit on the pricier side for many clothes - and spin off their vintage side into it’s own operation. Either way, they make nice stuff).
I know there’s a host more I’ve probably forgotten and others that I’ve not mentioned but you may know of, but these are the handful or so I’ve bought from over the past five or so years, and I’ve never had any issue really with any of them.
Uniqlo (and also sort of COS/Arket too)
Following on a section about vintage/secondhand clothing with one from fast-fashion adjacent5 brands is a choice I know, but this is about brands I’ve bought from and have gotten good wear out of, and the above three all (generally) deliver in that regard.
Uniqlo is still one of the best places to get basics that will last a decent amount of time6. Their Oxford shirts (the 100% cotton ones, not those oversized JWA collab ones) are solid staples, their chambray shirts are well made and do the job in the summer, and whilst I may appear to have ‘shat’ on the brands collab with JW Anderson above, this isn’t the case at all. I’ve a fleece jacket I bought from said collab a few years back, and it’s a staple for me at winter at this point (especially when I’m hiking or walking), whilst the trench I bought from their Uniqlo U line is nice too.
COS and Arket are something of a mixed bag. Menswear-wise, they generally produce solid stuff, though I’ve heard much more mixed reviews about the womenswear. Arket’s jumpers are generally solid enough, though I’ve only ever bought the one thing for myself. I have however gotten a couple from their womenswear line for my wife over the years and she really rates them7. Their chore jackets (one seen above in brown) are really nice & well made too, though you can find cheaper ones secondhand or in vintage shops. Sizing can be an issue sometimes too, and they don’t have the best size guide so keep that in mind.
COS’s menswear again makes some very nice stuff, especially their boiled wool jumpers. My issue with them is that the silhouettes can be a bit flow-y (is that the right word?) for my liking. I don’t mind a relaxed or casual fit, but some of their overcoats for example feel like they’ve no structure whatsoever (if that’s you’re thing however, then you’ll be happy).
Blacksmith Store
I was initially intent on avoiding general menswear sites like End or Mr. Porter, but I couldn’t leave Blacksmith off this list. I’ve bought really good Service Works8 tees from them, and have gotten a nice cross-body messenger bag thing that I use for carrying my camera(s) around rugged terrain.
I know the whole ‘good quality basics’ space feels oversaturated to the point it’s difficult to tell what’s actually good, but these lads are phenomenal. Their in-house stuff is really well made, and people seem to ‘be sleeping on’ their sowing pants as the kids say9 . My only criticism would be for their size guides to include shoulder measurements, but you can usually email them and they’ll get back to you promptly with an answer on that front.
Octobre Éditions
(Full disclosure - these lads kindly gifted me a couple of pieces this summer, but they were actually really nicely made and I do genuinely rate them)
Six years of French lessons in school and I still can’t work out whether it Octo-bruh, or Octo-bear. Ah well. My inability to remember secondary school French aside, Octobre Éditions make some really lovely pieces, a lot of which are made in Europe and from natural fibers. They’re also fairly priced too I feel, especially given the quality.
I’ve had my eye on their Hopper trench for a bit now but it’s sadly sold out in my size at time of writing, whilst their wool vest/jacket things are always well received from what I can gather. Plus, they’re the brother brand to Sezane and you can pick up some stuff for your wife/partner/sister/anyone who likes their womenswear via the OE site too, which is nice.
One thing to be aware of is that their clothes seem to be on the smaller side, at least in terms of shoulder width. I was gifted the Rio Knit Polo over the summer but had to size up to the XL given the measurements on the size guide provided, so do check that before buying as you may have to size up one (or in my case, two) sizes.
Universal Works
To close out this guide, I wanted to mention a brand I’ve a lot of love for. I’ve only ever owned a couple of things from Universal Works, but their quality is second to none in my view (there’s a reason they’re a lot of people’s first “#menswear” brand after all).
Their kimono indigo jacket I own is a wonderful piece of clothing. Do I wear it often? No, Irish weather unfortunately doesn’t allow for that. But, is it one of my favourite items in my wardrobe? 100%. I’ve zero regrets in buying it, it’s finished beautifully and made to last. Grabbing it on sale too was a bonus I grant you, but it’s such a lovely jacket. Their fleece cardigan jackets are also a staple for many for the colder months, and having been into Indigo & Cloth (my local stockist) and tried on a couple (too big sadly), you can see why.
Clothes well worth the money in my view.
Concluding Thoughts
That’s it, I’m finished (phew). There are other brands I could’ve waxed a bit lyrical about here, such as Carhartt WIP, Bronson MFG or GANT, but this already feels overly long at this point, and it has ten footnotes, which feels like a bit too much.
Anyhow, thanks for reading. As I mentioned above, there’s no sponsorship or affiliate stuff going on here. I do just genuinely rate the above brands and think their stuff would be nice for folks.
Have a good one. Slán.
Has it been discounted but you’re getting a new shipping/handling fee? Was it actually cheaper in March?
Ah, the forces of post-2000s neoliberalism, ensuring an increasing number of companies are more focused eeking out every last cent of consumers instead of actually developing new things or maintaining the quality of that already produced.
I’m using ‘vintage’ here to describe the stuff from the 90s and before, but secondhand items from the recent times are also good. Indeed, think of ‘vintage’ more as a stand-in for the latter items also.
I’m not entirely sure if everyone here ships internationally, but I suspect most will if they’re on eBay (hence why that’s the majority of the links)
Uniqlo are (despite perceptions) still fast fashion, whilst the latter two up there are owned by the H&M group; keep reading on above to find out why I’ve included them.
I will say, I think their knitwear has gotten somewhat worse; I bought a burnt orange lambswool roll-neck from them in 2019 that is significantly more sturdy and thicker than the same one I bought in off-white four years later. Their souffle stuff is actually very good, but it’s made of acrylic and other non-natural fibers, so do be aware of that.
This area however is apparently where the quality is a bit more mixed; the 100% natural cotton/wool stuff seems solid, as do some of the alpaca-mix jumpers, but others are apparently variable in quality if you watch any of those ‘quality assessor’ creators online.
Service Works could and probably should have their own section here, they’re really great and their quality-to-price ratio is phenomenal in my view.
Did end up having to return my pair, but that’s only because the inseam is a bit short on me (especially having a high-waist); please make these in a 32-34” inseam lads, they’d be class!